The Guides' Blog

Recently, I've been on the hunt for some new footwear to add to the arsenal.  As I climb more and varied things in more and varied locations, footwear selection has become as important as the specialization in any of my other tools.  The underlying principle is that a multipurpose tool will be alright at most things but excel at none.  When high performance is demanded, specialization is required.  Consequently, I have numerous sets of footwear in my quiver--approach shoes, light boots, mountain boots, down-turned climbing shoes, flat-lasted climbing shoes, etc.  So, what gap was I looking to fill?  The criteria are below.

Boot platform

http://www.sportiva.com

This shoe essentially needed to bridge the gap between snow and rock on summer alpine terrain.  For that reason I was interested in a boot platform for all the things a boot can do well:  hump heavy hiking loads, keep out water, have a bit of a mid- to high top to keep out snow and scree, and provide an opportunity for warmth in chillier temps.  Also, like everything else I purchase, durability matters--it needs to last.

Climbing
The shoe needed to climb well on rock and reasonably well on snow.  The plan was to be able to climb up to 5.7 on rock to avoid having to bring a pair of climbing shoes on moderate alpine rock routes.  On snow, I wanted to be able to kick steps and plunge step with it.  I had been using the Five Ten Exum Guide for a similar purpose, but the rounded heel cage on it makes plunge stepping rather insecure.  Finally, it would be great if the boot could take a light strap-on crampon for the occasional icy patches.

After examining the options, I settled on the La Sportiva Boulder X Mid GTX.

Pros:
The first thing I noticed about the Boulder X Mid was how incredibly lightweight the boot is.  In my hands and on my feet, it easily felt as light as my Exum Guides.  Weighing in at only 17.9oz / pair, the Boulder X Mid is actually just a bit lighter in my shoe size.  While I certainly don't intentionally purchase heavy equipment, weight is not usually a major consideration in my gear purchases because light weight usually translates to reduced durability.  In this case, though, I think I've found the best of both worlds.

The Boulder X has also met or exceeded my expectations in nearly every other respect as well.  They climb quite well.  The rubber is sticky but long-lasting, and consequently the boot smeared much better than I expected.  Also, the lacing system allows for a fairly tight fit in the toe box when conditions demand it.  Paired with a heavy-weight wool sock, they're warm enough for temps around 25-30F and the Gore-Tex liner is true-to-form as both highly water-resistant but breathable.  Adding a mini-gaiter to my set-up has made these boots a tad warmer and basically impervious to water, snow, and scree.  They even performed well in the most annoying of mixed conditions--one inch of snow atop slabby granite.

Cons:
There are just a couple spots where these boots could be improved.  The way the sole is bonded to the rand makes for a fairly floppy edge on the boot, requiring a lot more toe power when edging on small holds.  A stiffer edge would make for easier climbing.  Cutting a ridge into the instep of the sole would help them plunge-step a bit better as well.  Finally, I found that after many miles in the boots, the insole is not quite as comfortable as my other approaches shoes and boots.

Summary: 
The La Sportiva Boulder X Mid GTX provides a great platform for tackling easy-to-moderate climbing on rock and snow while also providing the environmental protection of a light boot (at a very light weight).  With a few minor tweaks to the soles, they'd be my ideal summer alpine boot.

When you mix the world’s two largest features, the mountains and the sea, you can bet there will be breathtaking views with vast, dramatic landscapes and succulent food to round out the climbing experience.  The Costa Blanca region of Spain didn’t let me down.

If I ignored the setting and just had raw climbing, I would have still had fun. The steep limestone feeds the need for a pump while the larger formations give the enduro day its due. The area is mostly bolted with the longer routes needing supplemental gear. We climbed routes ranging from 3+ to 7a+ (5.6 to 5.12) and only tapped the surface. There is much unclimbed rock in the region for those FA adventure seekers.  Here are a few crags, restaurants, and sites one doesn’t want to miss:

The Climbing

Penon de lfach: The landmark of the Costa Blanca, this 332m tower perched above the Mediterranean Sea has multi pitch routes ranging from 5+ to 7b (5.10 to 5.12b).  We climbed a 6a+ variation of Via Valencianos, a route with quite a bit of loose rock and polished cruxes but with a view that is among the most spectacular in the world.

Olta:  Fantastic rock quality and bird’s eye views of the Penon de Ifach and Mediterranean Sea make this area a must. The routes tend to be quite technical and range from 5 to 7c. Tai Chi (6b+) was definitely a standout with its thin moves up an aesthetic arête. (photo above)

Forada: For those seeking overhanging sport routes that deliver the pump Spain is known for, the countryside cliff of Forada is the place to go in the Costa Blanca. The north face provides a welcome respite from the sun this time of year, is packed with well-bolted routes up to 8b (5.13d), and is practically a roadside crag, depending on how far you drive down the “road.” Elios (7a+) and Spiderman (7a) were our favorites.

Gandia: This crag is steps from the road, has interesting rock formations, and is well-bolted. Perhaps its only drawback was that it is south facing and therefore quite hot in the 70 degree sun. 

Sella: Sella is the largest and most popular crag in the area. Offering everything from dramatic multi pitch climbs to overhanging sport routes up to 8c+, we could have spent weeks here alone. With several crags with short approaches, it was a great choice for our last day, giving us time to get in a few pitches before heading home to pack up.

The Food

The Costa Blanca has food options to satisfy every taste and budget. From Michelin 3 star restaurants to American fast food (yes, I did get a cheeseburger or three), the food will not disappoint.

Quique Dacosta: It’s hard to believe that the little seaside town of Denia would have a Michelin 3 star restaurant that has been called the best in the world by many, but we can attest that it is true. This meal appealed to every sense and can’t be done justice with words or photos. All I can say is if you are looking for the meal of a lifetime, this is it.

Casa Pepa: We would likely have not even found the small village of Ondara had we not heard about Casa Pepa, another Michelin starred restaurant situated among olive and orange groves. The meal here was simple and elegant and would have been the standout had we not gone to Quique.

El Andaluz: You can’t go to Spain and not have paella, tapas, and sangria. We tried several, and after a morning of exploring the Old Town area of Calpe, we found the best of the bunch here. Our waiter actually prohibited us from ordering more tapas lest we spoil the paella, but all of the nine or so plates we had were great, as was the paella.

Calpe dockside: This area at the base of the Penon de Ifach is filled with restaurants that offer fish fresh off the boats and is great if you are looking for simply prepared FRESH seafood. You probably can’t go wrong with any of them as we found after the restaurant we tried to eat at on three separate occasions was closed. After a feast of sole, lobster, prawns, pulpo, and a bottle of albarino, you can stroll the dock and see the day’s catch being unloaded.

The Rest

Perhaps one of best things about this area is the abundance of things to do on rest days (or after climbing if you’re not too beat). The entire region has beautiful beaches with aquamarine waters. We particularly enjoyed one in Calpe with views of the Penon de Ifach. You could also get lost for days wandering the streets of the many towns in the area, ducking in and out of alleyways dotted with spectacular murals, stopping for a glass of sangria and a snack before heading out again. And if you haven’t gotten enough exercise from all of the climbing and exploring, you can go for an evening run along the Mediterranean in Javea (which was perfect after I sampled the local McDonalds). Whatever your taste in climbing, food, or recreation the Costa Blanca is a magnificent place for a climbing vacation.

To see more photos of spain click here: http://www.karstendelap.com/2013/04/25/spain-in-pictures/

The AMGA Single Pitch Instructor assesment that was just taught in the Red River Gorge was a full-conditions course. Karsten had to set a tyrollean over the river because there was so much rain on the first day that there were flash floods! 

Find out More about our AMGA SPI instructor programs. 

The annual Fox Mountain Guides New Hampshire Ice Trip is well underway and in fact coming to a close! As one of my favorite trips, it saddens me to see it come to a end every year! The ice climbing in New Hampshire is world class with short approches and everything from easy, beginner level ice to hardman mixed climbing. 

Our month up here starts off with our Ice Climbing 101 Course and the Mountain Washington Valley Ice Fest. I am always psyched to hang out and watch slideshows from some of the best climbers in NH and the world as well as help put on the clinics for this event. Our 101 guests join us in the fun as we cook every night in the chalet and play games and the occasional joke (or magic trick this year) on each other. 

We head out to local crags every day and make sure no one goes home without a forearm pump! For those wanting to stay a little longer or pick up where they left off from the previous year, the Ice 201 Course brings an even bigger "pump." It culimnates with multi-pitch climbing for the all-around ice climbing experience!

Many clients come and book their favorite guide for a few days of climbing where they pick the objectives and come away with some great experiences.

I love this trip! So many good memories with great folks, and this year has added many more!!!

Fellow AMGA Rock Guide Lindsay Fixmer and I recently tested out the BlueWater 9.1 Icon on spectacular Hallet Peak in the Rocky Mountain National Park. As you can see, this rope sets a new standard for performance in the alpine:

I love these climbs more than most. I know them like my children’s faces.  I love them on the hottest day.  I love them in accumulating snow.  I love them in the pouring rain.  And, I love when people meet the climbs I love. 

Tonight, I can barely remember the first time I kissed my wife.  I remember the story of our first kiss, because I have told it many times.  But I don’t remember what I my own lips felt like back then, much less hers.  In the same manner, I do not remember when I first deciphered the Nose of Looking Glass Rock, or bashed my way to the top of Gumbie’s Rampage, or first dangling off the Tilted World.  Those climbs are so far into my past that the first time is no longer a feeling that I can remember.  They have become fluid, unpretentious, thoughtless motion.  Affectionate, but familiar, like kissing my wife.

One week into our internship with Fox Mountain Guides, I was told to take off on a mini road trip with the other intern, Jesse Graeter, down to Sand Rock, Alabama to help Adam Beck with a booking. We eagerly accepted this opportunity to instruct at a new setting. With a carload of climbing gear, blue skies, and plenty of excitement, we set off to meet Adam, Fox Mountain Guides main guide for Georgia, Alabama, and Tennessee.

Nineteen years ago I came to North Carolina for the first season at Camp Blue Star as a climbing ‘specialist’ to work for the summer. Nineteen years later I am still proud to be affiliated with Camp Blue Star and serve in a staff hiring and training role for their climbing program. This year, sounding like the start to a cheesy joke the climbing team is an American, a New Zealander and two English guys. Trey is AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Certified and Callum is the UK equivalent (MLTE Single Pitch Award) but Blue Star is still putting him through the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course and Assessment. All four will also be taking the two day AMGA Climbing Wall Instructor Course this weekend and eight day Wilderness First Responder certification (as well as five days of climbing training with me later this month). For me this is what sets Blue Star apart from other summer camps, the comprehensive unparalleled staff training for their Outdoor Adventure Program Staff.

I am sitting in the Newark, NJ airport en route to Armenia. We have plans to climb the famed basalt columns as well as check out a  valley that has potential for many new multi-pitch routes. Hopefully we will get a couple of routes up this time with the idea that we will gain reconniasance for more new route potential in the future.

REI Presentation: Aconcagua

The tallest mountain outside of Asia, Aconcagua stands at 22,840 feet offering all inspired climbers an exhilarating experience full of physical and mental challenges. From hiking through the Vacas Valley, crossing flowing rivers lush from summer glacial thaw to cramponing snow fields above Camp 2 at 20,000 ft, Aconcagua offers it all!

Join guides Karsten Delap and Lindsay Fixmer as they lead teams trekking through the beauty of an Argentinian summer in the mountains. Follow them on an amazing journey with breathtaking views, overcoming numerous