Fox Mountain Guides
and Climbing School
The Southeast's only AMGA Accredited Climbing School
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AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program
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Is climbed without intermediate belays |
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presents no difficulties on approach or retreat, such as route finding, scrambling or navigating |
The SPI Program does not cover multipitch guiding. These skills are taught in the AMGA Rock Instructor Course. SPI’s that guide clients in multipitch terrain would be guiding outside of their terrain guidelines.
SPI Course Candidate Pre-Requisites
You meet the pre-requisites for the SPI course if you:
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Have a genuine interest in rock climbing and instructing novices on single pitch crags. |
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Are at least 18 years old at the time of the course. |
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Have at least 12 months prior climbing experience. |
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Are an active climber with traditional lead climbing experience (leader placing pro). |
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Have trad lead climbed a minimum of 15 graded rock climbing routes (any grade). |
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Are capable of comfortably climbing 5.8 while on a top rope. |
The above pre-requisites are absolute minimums and most candidates have way in excess of the above. Without having at least this amount experience you are unlikely to play a constructive part on the course or be able to make best use of the training. If you are unsure of your skill levels we suggest hiring an AMGA/IFMGA certified guide to evaluate and enhance your skills and experience prior to SPI Program enrollment.
SPI Certification Upkeep and Recertification
SPI Certification is only valid with current AMGA Membership and valid current First Aid Certification. If you let your either of these lapse your SPI Certification is invalid until you rectify this by updating your AMGA Membership or First Aid Certification. It is your professional responsibility to ensure you have current AMGA Membership and First Aid Certification.
SPI Certification lasts for three years from the date of assessment. There are two options for renewal:
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Certified Single Pitch Instructors can take the two day SPI Assessment to renew their certification. |
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Certified Single Pitch Instructors who successfully complete one of the following AMGA Courses: Rock Instructor Course, Advanced Rock Guides Course, Alpine Guides Course, or an Advanced Alpine Guides Course is granted SPI certification for three years from the course end date. After completing a course please contact the AMGA so they can update your records. |
To keep SPI Certification current SPI’s should seek out recertification before the expiry date of their certification. Candidates that let their certification lapse can take part in the SPI Assessment but they will not hold any certification between their SPI expiry date and successfully passing an SPI Assessment. From a professional standpoint this is not advisable.
SPI Program Hours and Ratios
The SPI Course is:
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A minimum of 27 hours, normally run as three consecutive nine hour days or day classes with evening sessions. |
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SPI Courses will not exceed a ratio of six students to one current SPI Program Provider. |
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The maximum number of students on any SPI Program will be twelve. |
SPI Course Overview
The following three day outline is the standard progression for the SPI Course. You course may have a different daily schedule and it is acceptable for Program Providers to do this as long as the entire curriculum is covered in your course. Program Providers may add to the curriculum on your course but must not omit pieces. SPI Program providers must make it clear when they are teaching outside the curriculum and should not evaluate beyond the curriculum. The course is normally run over three consecutive nine hour days but as long as all the curriculum is covered over 27 hours the course could be run over separate weekends or even as a semester class.
Day 1
Session 1: Introductions
Session 2: SPI and AMGA Program Overview
Session 3: Equipment
Session 4: Knots and Hitches
Session 5: Belaying
Session 6: The Climbing Site
Session 7: Protection and Anchoring
Session 8: Programming and Risk Management
Session 9: Teaching
Day 2
Session 1: Professionalism
Session 2: Top Managed Sites
Session 3: Station Management and Site Organization
Session 4: Lowering
Session 5: Rappelling
Session 6: Assistance Skills - Top Managed Sites
Day 3
Session 1: Base Managed Sites
Session 2: Working with Groups
Session 3: Assistance Skills - Base Managed Sites
Session 4: Bouldering
SPI Assessment Overview
Day 1
Session 1: SPI Assessment Orientation
Session 2: Lead Climbing and Top Rope Session
Session 3: Technical Components
Session 4: Debriefs
Day 2
Session 1: Teaching Components
Session 2: Group Management
Session 3: Debriefs
Click here for AMGA SPI Course Dates and Costs
Click here to book the SPI Course
Need climbing instructor training but don't meet the AMGA SPI Course prerequisites or do not have enough time to take the 3 day course? We also offer one day and two day climbing instructor courses and workshops. Click here for more information.
Topics include:
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Expanding your repertoire of belay systems |
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Knots and friction hitches |
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Harness selection and choices |
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Rappelling set ups and methods |
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Exploring and practicing methods of teaching climbing skills |
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Coaching participants effectively |
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Climbing equipment materials and technology |
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Administrative, legal and ethical expectations and responsibilities associated with being a climbing instructor |
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Developing quick and effective anchoring techniques using natural, artificial and bolt anchors |
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Extending anchors |
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Promoting “Leave No Trace” and Environmental concerns |
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General site management |
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Assisting and rescuing climbers, raising systems |
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Working in Top and Base Managed Sites |
Accreditations and Standards:
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The AMGA Single Pitch Instructors Course fore fills the requirements of the American Camping Association Accreditation Standards for climbing instructors: |
§ PD-12. Supervisor Qualifications “The overall supervisor for each specialized activity must be an adult with certification or documented training and experience in that activity”.
§ PD-13. Staff Skill Verification “Staff teaching specialized program activities must have their skills verified and evaluated prior to leading activities”.
Taken from the ACA Accreditation Standards 1998 revised edition
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The AMGA Single Pitch Instructors Course will teach instructors the skills necessary to fulfill the requirements of AEE Accreditation for top rope climbing instruction: |
§ 19.A.01 “Program staff have the skills, knowledge, and experience to conduct top rope rock climbing and to meet the risk management, operational, and curriculum expectations of this activity”.
§ 19.A02 “Program staff keep up-to-date on changes in technology and procedures for top rope rock climbing”.
§ 19.E.01 “Staff have the theoretical and practical training for climbing rescues”
Taken from the Association for Experiential Education (AEE) Manual of Accreditation Standards for Adventure Programs 1995
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The AMGA Single Pitch Instructors Course will teach the skills necessary to fulfill the requirements of the USFS NC Commercial Special Use Permit to instruct in Pisgah national Forest (Looking Glass, Cedar Rock, Linville Gorge, Table Rock) as it states: |
§ VII. “Guides must posses the technical skills and knowledge necessary to lead and teach the activity they are engaging in”.
Taken from the National Forest’s in North Carolina Operating Plan for Commercial Recreational Use
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The AMGA SPI Certification is required to instruct at Ship Rock NC (or any area on the Blue Ridge Parkway) as the US Department of the Interior Incidental Business Permit Provisions required to instruct at Ship Rock states: |
§ "The group will be accompanied by no less than 2 AMGA certified climbing guides"
Taken from the current US Department of the Interior Incidental Business Permit Provisions (SERO BLRI 011 4/00)
Frequently Asked Questions
Isn’t 3 days a long time for “just single pitch stuff”, don’t I know all that?
I have heard this many times, and here’s something I hear at the end of every class, “I wish we had another 3 days!” The course is packed with valuable information that many instructors think they already know, many seasoned instructors are amazed at their lack of, or major gaps in their knowledge. This is a great foundation for instructors wishing to take the AMGA Rock Instructor Course.
Some past SPI Course graduate quotes:
“I have worked for years as a climbing instructor but on the course I felt like I was in a 301 honors class when I should have been in 101” (ex NOLS instructor).
“I realized I didn’t know all that I should have” (Head Guide at a large local climbing guide service).
“I learnt more in 3 days on the course than in the past three years of working in the field” (instructor for a local guide service).
Why should I take the course? Some reasons may include,
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The instructor/guide hiring public now recognizes the AMGA logo as the industry standard of professional guides in America. People now look to hire individuals that hold these credentials because they know they will be hiring the best instructor or guide possible. |
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Climbing instructors that hold AMGA Certifications are now highly marketable. Guide services are hiring AMGA trained and certified instructors because they now need to show their instructors have had recognized training to gain permits for private, NPS and USFS lands and to comply with Accreditation Standards, such as the American Camping Association and Association for Experiential Education (AEE). |
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Insurance companies recognize AMGA certification as the minimum standard for climbing instructors and guides in the USA and they realize the lower risk in insuring AMGA trained and certified instructors. They have therefore started offering big discounts to AMGA certified instructors and guides. |
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AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Certification is required to work in areas across the country as the minimum standard and this will become more so as more land managers and government agencies use the certification as a minimum standard to gain a permit. Some areas that currently require that instructors have to hold AMGA SPI or higher are, Ship Rock NC (and any area on the Blue Ridge Parkway), New River Gorge WV, Red Rocks NV, Joshua Tree CA, the Gunks NY, Elderado Canyon CO to name just a few, with many more following year by year. |
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The AMGA SPI Course is worth College credit in some of the local Outdoor Education Colleges. If your College does not offer this please contact Fox Mountain Guides for details on how to set this up and for a list of Colleges that currently offer credit for AMGA courses and certifications. |
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Individual Members of the AMGA that gain the SPI certification can use the AMGA logo in advertising materials and get prodeals from over 40 climbing and outdoor equipment manufactures (40%-50% off retail prices). |
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You can never have enough knowledge and education especially in this ever changing sport! |
Who takes the course?
Climbing instructors that want to take their education to the next level and make themselves more marketable in the field. Past clients have included: Outward Bound and NOLS staff, teachers from Schools, College Professors and Outdoor Education majors from local Colleges, summer camp climbing staff from camps such as Blue Star Camps, Camp Timberlake, Merrimac, and Mondamin, Gwynne Valley, Merri Woode (to name just a few), instructors from private climbing schools and guide services, individual aspiring climbing guides and instructors, and recreational climbers wanting to gain the next level of skills that they can not get from basic climbing instructional courses. Candidates have traveled from States as far as Arkansas, Washington, California, Colorado, Indiana, and Florida to take part in this training with Fox Mountain Guides, one candidate came from Australia just for the AMGA SPI Course and Assessment!
How long is the SPI and how much does the course cost?
The course is 3 days long, with a separate 2 day Assessment to gain the certification. On the final day of the course the instructor gives the candidate a written evaluation and suggests what they need to do before taking the exam. Days normally run 8am-5pm, and some days have short evening classes after dinner, it’s a very intensive course! The SPI Course costs $435, ($375 for current AMGA Members) and the SPI Assessment costs $230 with Fox Mountain Guides. The Southeast is still the most reasonably priced place in the country to take the course! The SPI Course costs include one year Associate Membership of AMGA (normally $60), the AMGA SPI Manual and all other course materials.
Isn’t that expensive compared to courses like the Wilderness First Responder (normally $750 for 8 days), or ACA Kayak Instructor ($500 for 5 days)?
No. Here’s the big difference with all AMGA courses, extremely low student to instructor ratios. The SPI Course And Assessment has a maximum student to instructor ratio of 6:1, so you will never have more than 6 students to one certified SPI provider unlike Wilderness First Responder or Kayak Instructor Courses that can be anything up to 15:1 ratios. In comparison it’s very reasonable. The Rock Instructor Course (RIC) is even lower with a maximum student to instructor ratio of 3:1.
Where will the courses be held?
Fox Mountain Guides and Climbing School run the SPI Courses and Assessments across North Carolina, but they can be arranged anywhere in the USA. Call or email us for details. The courses are held at Crowders Mountain, Looking Glass Rock, and Table Rock Linville Gorge.
There are some items of equipment on the required list that I have not got, where can I get that gear?
Equipment can be rented from FMG for a very nominal charge.
Do I need Wilderness First Aid/Responder to take the course?
No, you do not need to hold first aid certification to take the SPI Course or Assessment.
Email with questions about the AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Program
Click here for AMGA SPI Course Dates and Costs
Click here to book the SPI Course
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Email: info@foxmountainguides.com Toll Free: 1-888-28-GUIDE (48433)
Fox Mountain Guides and Climbing School, 3228 Asheville
Hwy, Pisgah Forest, NC 28768
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