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December 2004-March 2005 Ice Climbing Conditions in North Carolina

Fox Mountain Guides will be guiding fat ice in New Hampshire 7-22 February 2009. Click here for information on ice guiding and packages including accommodation and food! We are also offering accommodation and meals for ice climbers that do not wish to hire a guide for $65 per night. Email us for more details.

December 2004:

Tuesday 14th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 30°, Tonight's low: 23°

Reports of 215 coming in thin, hopefully in the next few days with tonight's low of 23°. Don't smash it to pieces, give it a chance!

Wednesday 15th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 41°, Tonight's low: 2

Climbs are forming up in Pisgah. Looking Glass and Johns Rock climbs are too thin to climb but coming in. Tonight's low is 20°, but higher temps in the high 40s expected tomorrow. Highway 215 reported to be coming in.

 

1: Cedar Gem, Cedar Rock, 1pm

2: First Slabs, Cedar Rock, 12.30pm

3: Unknown #1, Cedar Rock, 1pm

Thursday 16th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 50°, Tonight's low: 16°

Didn't get out today. No reports, but with low temps and overnight lows tonight of 16° things look good.

Friday 17th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 51°, Tonight's low: 24°

Cedar Rock: Still forming, but running heavily. No climbs leadable. Some formations had fallen since Wednesday (some falling as we left).

Johns Rock: Forming slowly, still thin. No reports.

Whitesides: Joe Bryson reports: "Starshine and Mother Russia too thin, but forming. We did Coyote Ugly on back wall. It was thin but exciting. Good rock gear at bulge. The stuff around Scotch on the Rocks looked good".

Hwy Zoo15: Brandon Calloway reports thin conditions on most of the formations. The lower far end was in thick and leadable. "There's about enough ice for two small groups there at the moment". Hopefully it will last the weekend! Please try and let the thin formations grow!

Big Lost Cove: Jasyn Klamborowski reports: "Whitefang ok for Top Roping, too thin for screws, the other climb there could be belayed from the top. Will be climbing there Saturday so will get full report". "Roan Mountain is coming in as of 3 days ago for some ice bouldering. At Doughton Park the road is still open so no climbing (they are forming)".

1: Cedar Gem, Cedar Rock, 9am

2: First Slabs, Cedar Rock, 9am

3: Unknown #1, Cedar Rock, 9am

Saturday 18th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 53°, Tonight's low: 32°

Hwy 215: Tom Gallo reports: "The ice scramble up on the main wall and the easiest route 50 yards left are leadable. 4-5 other flows are climbable. The section of 215 from Canton to the parkway is marked as closed but many, many cars are going around the signs and all looks good. Ice climbing/bouldering at Carver Gap, Roan mountain, is in although spotty".

 

Sunday 19th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 40°, Tonight's low: 11°

Hwy 215: Coming in still, all thin but Rampaging Gumbies was leadable. Snow showers at around 2pm getting real cold as we left. Not too many people, only 3 groups at the Lower Wall. Should be good in a few days with this forecast cold weather.

Johns Rock: Anything that was forming has all but gone. Rip Off had gone, water flowing. See photo below.

1: Hwy 215 Lower Wall, 10.20am

2: Hwy 215 Upper Wall, 10.00am

3: Paul leading Rampaging Gumbies on the Lower Wall, Hwy 215, 1pm

4: Rip Off, Johns Rock, 3.30pm

5: Scott Gilliam leading The Drip, Doughton.

 

 

 

 

Monday 20th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 33°, Tonight's low: 19°

Cedar Rock: Still forming, but running heavily. Some formations had fallen since Friday. Lead up to the curtain on Cedar Gem, short screws only (13cm). Last 60 feet was like climbing a a big Slurppy, not recommended. Needs a while yet.

Doughton Park: Scott Gillam reports: "Early on Sunday most of the lines on the left were melting and a couple had fallen down. Big Daddy got top-roped some, but didn't look leadable. The gully was in and leadable. They closed the Parkway around 3:30. Earlier in the day, however, we had hiked in to what someone called "The Drip," a 60ft flow visible from the park water tower. It was in leadable condition and provided a bit of fun. When we got back to the vehicle we had a nice note telling us how to get assistance with the gate. On the way out we saw some folks packing up at Big Daddy by headlamp".

1: Cedar Gem, Cedar Rock, 11am

2: FMG Guide Patrick Weaver on belay duty, Cedar Gem, Cedar Rock, 10.30am

Tuesday 21st Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 56°, Tonight's low: 18°

Big Lost Cove: Brandon Calloway reports: "White Fang is in good shape, but is very wet, running with water.  Center of short, steep headwall  mid-pitch is thin with water running underneath.  This could blow-out if it got too warm.  The route could be led, but the ice (although thick in most places) is akin to wet cement and isn’t trustworthy.  Bring your wetsuit! The upper pitch of Paradise Lost is in great top-rope condition, although a bit thin at the start.  Ice conditions were the same as stated for White Fang.  This too is running with water and very wet. A good cold snap should put both routes in prime condition, as long as they hold up for the forecasted warming trend".

Hwy 215: Patrick Weaver reports: Good conditions early on in the morning followed by rapid PM warming. Formations degenerating, hopefully will hold up to the next few days warm spell.

1: Top of Paradise Lost, Big Lost Cove, Photo by Brandon Calloway.

2: White Fang, Big Lost Cove, Photo by Brandon Calloway.

3: Hwy 215 Lower Wall, 10.00am. Photo by Patrick Weaver.

 

Wednesday 22nd Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 53°, Tonight's low: 25°

Currently warm and raining heavily here in Pisgah so I can't see much ice making it through the night.

 

Thursday 23rd Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 55°, Tonight's low: 25°

Rained for the last 12 hours here in Pisgah, and currently still raining hard. Can't se there being any ice left now.

 

Friday 24th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 33°, Tonight's low: 23°
Saturday 25th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 35°, Tonight's low: 19°
Sunday 26th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 42°, Tonight's low: 26°
Monday 27th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 46°, Tonight's low: 22°

Graveyard Fields: Skip Spangenburg reports: Sunday at graveyard there were 6 or so leadable lines on the lower wall. All the big stuff is reforming very quickly. Many formations were not affected badly by the rain.
 

Tuesday 28th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 45°, Tonight's low: 20°

 

Wednesday 29th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 58°, Tonight's low: 36°

Hwy 215: Wayne Busch reports: The ice is looking very thin, sounds hollow underneath. Much is breaking off with the warming weather. Most will probably be gone in the next day or two. 215 has Road Closed signs on the Waynesville side, but is open despite the signs. It looks as if the recent repairs are nearly completed.

1: Hwy 215 this morning (photo by Wayne Busch)

2: Climber at Hwy 215 this morning (photo by Wayne Busch)

Thursday 30th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 60°, Tonight's low: 41°

 

Friday 31st Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 64°, Tonight's low: 43°

 

January 2005:

Saturday 1st

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 67°, Tonight's low: 34°

Sunday 2nd

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 62°, Tonight's low: 36°
Monday 3rd Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 64°, Tonight's low: 39°

Tuesday 4th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 69°, Tonight's low: 47°

Excellent rock climbing weather!

 

Wednesday 5th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 65°, Tonight's low: 41°
Thursday 6th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 61°, Tonight's low: 45°

Friday 7th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 58°, Tonight's low: 40°

Saturday 8th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 59°, Tonight's low: 39°

Sunday 9th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 60°, Tonight's low: 32°
Monday 10th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 60°, Tonight's low: 34°

Tuesday 11th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 64°, Tonight's low: 36°

Wednesday 12th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 64°, Tonight's low: 46°
Thursday 13th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 64°, Tonight's low: 50°

Friday 14th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 51°, Tonight's low: 34°

Saturday 15th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 46°, Tonight's low: 29°

Sunday 16th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 48°, Tonight's low: 18°

No ice forming yet. Forecasts looking good for late in the week/next weekend.

 

Monday 17th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 38°, Tonight's low: 11°

Cold today! From the South Face of Looking Glass Cedar areas looked like they were starting to form, as was Johns Rock. No reports from any other areas.

Things are looking good for the end of the week and weekend.

 

Tuesday 18th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 34°, Tonight's low: 11°

Hwy 215: Reports from various climbers that it's coming in. No photos yet.

 

Wednesday 19th

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 37°, Tonight's low: 19°

Reports that Graveyard Fields is in fat.

 

Thursday 20th Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 48°, Tonight's low: 30°

 

Friday 21st

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 53°, Tonight's low: 32°

From the South Face of Looking Glass all that could be heard all day was the crashing sounds of ice formations falling on Johns Rock and Cedar Areas! Ripp Off and other Johns Rock formations had all fallen by the end of the day.

 

Saturday 22nd

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 40°, Tonight's low: 20°

Hwy 215: Tom Gallo reports: The ice was in but with light rain and 40F temperature, it was melting fast.

 

Sunday 23rd

Pisgah Areas: Today's High: 30°, Tonight's low low: 12°

Cold out there! Last night was cold here in Pisgah and forecast overnight lows of 9° tonight on the parkway for 215 and Graveyard areas.

Graveyard Fields: Stephen Scoff reports that "Graveyard was far and away fatter than 215 and the upper wall at that. Four lines (60', 80' and 2 100') led and the middle wall is getting close. Road is generally clear but you may need to dismount at a few icy drifts".

 

1: Hwy 215, photo sent by: Johan Van Aken

2: Climber at Hwy 215, photo sent by: Johan Van Aken


 

Monday 24th Pisgah Areas: Today's  High: 42°, Tonight's low: 24°

Tuesday 25th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 52°, Forecast low: 34°

Wednesday 26th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 61°, Forecast low: 29°
Thursday 27th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 47°, Forecast low: 20°

Friday 28th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 38°, Forecast low: 24°

Saturday 29th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 30°, Forecast low: 30°

Snowing pretty heavily here in the Pisgah area at present.

 

Sunday 30th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 44°, Forecast low: 39°
Monday 31st Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 51°, Forecast low: 35°

February 2005:

Tuesday 1st

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 44°, Forecast low: 28°

Not much ice about.

 

Wednesday 2nd

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 37°, Forecast low: 26°
Thursday 3rd Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 41°, Forecast low: 30°

Friday 4th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 41°, Forecast low: 29°

Hwy 215: Tom Gallo reports: At about 11:00 pm it was at 28° and making ice. There will be two to four of the lines on the highest wall "in" Saturday morning. Who knows what will last the day. The parkway looks fairly clear, as far as I could see from the barricade.

 

Saturday 5th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 58°, Forecast low: 32°

Graveyard Fields: Skip Spangenburg reports: "the ice was good enough to get six leads in and there were still 3-4 more with quality ice to protect yourself. By Tuesday get out the rock gear".
 

Sunday 6th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 55°, Forecast low: 33°
Monday 7th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 60°, Forecast low: 40°

Tuesday 8th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 61°, Forecast low: 45°

Wednesday 9th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 57°, Forecast low: 34°
Thursday 10th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 51°, Forecast low: 25°

Friday 11th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 45°, Forecast low: 27°

Hwy 215: Patrick Weaver reports: "Nothing there!" If there's nothing there then I doubt there's any ice about.

 

Saturday 12th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 57°, Forecast low: 34°

Sunday 13th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 53°, Forecast low: 39°
Monday 14th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 46°, Forecast low: 38°

Tuesday 15th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 60°, Forecast low: 39°

Wednesday 16th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 58°, Forecast low: 32°
Thursday 17th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 47°, Forecast low: 35°

Friday 18th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 49°, Forecast low: 35°

Saturday 19th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 53°, Forecast low: 23°

Sunday 20th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 46°, Forecast low: 35°
Monday 21st Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 63°, Forecast low: 42°

Tuesday 22nd

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 67°, Forecast low: 39°

Wednesday 23rd

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 67°, Forecast low: 41°
Thursday 24th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 52°, Forecast low: 36°

Friday 25th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 52°, Forecast low: 33°

Saturday 26th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 56°, Forecast low: 26°

Sunday 27th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 44°, Forecast low: 31°
Monday 28th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 39°, Forecast low: 32°

March 2005:

Tuesday 1st

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 41°, Forecast low: 22°

Cold out in Pisgah today, slight possibility of some thin ice at higher elevations at the end of the week?

 

Wednesday 2nd

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 45°, Forecast low: 24°
Thursday 3rd Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 48°, Forecast low: 28°

Friday 4th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 49°, Forecast low: 30°

Possibly a scraping of ice at higher elevations?

 

Saturday 5th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 53°, Forecast low: 36°

Sunday 6th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 52°, Forecast low: 34°
Monday 7th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 57°, Forecast low: 31°

Tuesday 8th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 44°, Forecast low: 34°

Wednesday 9th

Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 54°, Forecast low: 34°
Thursday 10th Pisgah Areas: Forecast High: 55°, Forecast low: 32°

Friday 11th

Reports of climbers at 215. Last known day of ice climbing in the NC 2005 season.

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Last modified: 07/31/08

 

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